Loom Knitting Resources: Hat Size, Loom Gauge & Converting Patterns

I often see certain questions pop up in my loom knitting groups online, so I thought I would post a few resources for beginners (and for those experienced knitters who might like to have a few popular resources linked all in one place).

1. What size loom do I need to make a hat? How long does a hat need to be?

Whether you are making a hat for a baby, child, teen, or adult, there is a loom for that! And a hat length.

Wide Gauge Loom Hat Sizes:

To take the guesswork out of figuring out hat sizing and looms, Denise from Loomahat.com has created a handy dandy Loom Size / Hat Size Chart.

This page is wonderful because it not only includes the hat size chart, but it then goes further for each type of hat to show you what the appropriate loom looks like and what color it is! If you’ve bought a loom from one of the four main brands – Knifty Knitter, Boye, Darice, or Loops & Threads – this is extremely helpful.

Venus’ Tip: Keep in mind that if you are using say a 36-peg loom which could be used for a child’s hat, teen hat or a lean adult hat, which stitch you use can make a difference. If I’m making a child’s hat, I’m going to use a tighter stitch like the u-knit, but if I’m making a hat for an older teen or lean adult, I will use the e-wrap knit stitch.

Note: The Loomahat chart is for wide-gauge looms. If you are making a hat with a small gauge loom, you need a different way of gauging sizes.

Small Gauge Loom Hat Sizes:

According to Authentic Knitting Board, which sells small gauge looms, a child size hat is 64 pegs, a teen hat is 72 pegs and an adult hat is 80 pegs. You’re roughly doubling the amount of pegs you’d use with a wide gauge loom.

2. What gauge is my loom? What brands make 1/2″, 3/8″, or 5/8″ gauge looms?

When you’re starting out, loom gauge can be confusing. What size loom gauge do I own? My pattern calls for a 3/8″ gauge, who makes that? What is the difference between a 1/2″ and a 5/8″ gauge?

Loom gauge is determined by measuring the groove of one peg to the next peg with a ruler or measuring tape. The smaller the gauge, the finer the yarn you need.

Generally speaking, you’d use a thick yarn or two strands of #4 for a 5/8″ gauge loom, one strand of #4 for a 1/2″ gauge loom, and #3 yarn for a 3/8″ loom.

But to help you work out which brands make which sizes, here is a great reference page from Goodknit Kisses.

Some of the brands originally included in the database are no longer manufactured. But it will give you the gauge for several brands still sold today: Boye, CinDWood, Knifty Knitter (sold on eBay), Loops & Threads, and the Martha Stewart Loom. For those who have the Darice loom, it is similar to the Boye, Knifty Knitter and Loops & Threads looms.

It is worth skimming the whole page as there are updated charts at the bottom and information about knitting needle to loom comparison and additional tips.

3. How do I convert a needle knit pattern to loom knitting?

This is one that still confuses me a bit, but there are guides for this as well!

Goodnight Kisses has a needle to loom conversion guide HERE.

The Vintage Storehouse also has a conversion guide, which includes a video.

4. What the does this abbreviation mean? Help, I don’t understand!

If you have come across a pattern that uses a code word that you don’t understand, here is a list of loom knitting abbreviations and what they mean. Unfortunately, there is no link on the page to explain how to do each thing, but it is at least a start to figuring out what the heck certain pattern abbreviations mean.

Isela Phelps also has an abbreviations list that does give a short description of each loom knitting term. Isela is the author of the Loom Knitting Primer and several other loom knitting books and patterns.

5. What is the difference between true knit, u-knit, flat knit, and e-wrap?

Knitting is knitting, right? Well, sort of. There are actually four ways to create a knit stitch. Some patterns specify which knit stitch to use and some let you decide for yourself.

If you’ve wondered what the difference is between the four knit stitches and want a visual comparison and instructions on how to do them, please check out the link above, from Loomahat.com.

Sometimes patterns do not specify which version of the knit stitch to use. Most of the time, I tend to err on the side of caution and assume that the pattern needs a true-knit or u-knit unless it says otherwise (sometimes I get lazy and do e-wrap).

True knit is essentially the opposite of a purl stitch. U-knit is similar to e-wrap, but you are only wrapping around the front of the peg. Flat-knit makes the tightest stitch.

The difference between true knit, u-knit, and flat knit is basically tension on the loom – how tight do you want your stitch to be? E-wrap is very easy, but it creates a twisted stitch, which can effect the look of the pattern.

6. Where can I find free patterns to try?

YouTube is your friend. You can find all kinds of loom knitting tutorials on YouTube. Hats, Scarves, Plush Toys, etc.

Authentic Knitting Board also has a lot of free patterns on their website as well. Keep in mind that these patterns are for small gauge looms, so they won’t work on a Knifty Knitter, Darice, Loops & Threads or Boye Loom. You would need a Knitting Board, CinDWood, Cottage Loom or similar.

Loomahat has a list of free hat patterns on the website. Generally, the patterns are for wide-gauge looms.

Ravelry is another great resource. Some patterns offered there are free and some are for sale.

 

I hope these were helpful. Happy Looming!

If you have a favorite loom knitting chart or resource, let us know in the comments!

 

 

 

 

 

Loom Knitting Stitches – Resources

 

My current obsession is finding new loom knitting stitches. If you’re a beginner to intermediate knitter, you might be wondering what other stitches are out there to try and where to find them. So I’ve put together some online and printed resources where you can find stitch patterns for your loom.

ONLINE

Isela Phelps Blog – Isela writes books on loom knitting and she also creates patterns for KB (Authentic Knitting Board). She has two loom knitting guides that will show you how to do stitches such as garter stitch, 2×2 rib stitch, basketweave, moss stitch, a diagonal herringbone, slip stitches and more.

Loomahat – You can find a lot of stitches on both the blog and the YouTube channel, as well as buy downloadable stitch booklets, which are sold on Amazon and Etsy. Denise’s blog and videos are VERY beginner-friendly. Pretty much all of the stitch tutorials that she makes also have a video, so you can follow along step-by-step. Examples of stitches include: bamboo, Andalusian, basketweave, double moss, farrow, linen, tiny heart, open weave, waffle, and more.

KB Looms Blog – on the Authentic Knitting Board website, they have some stitch patterns (as well as beginner tutorials) available. This link will take you to the Stitchology page which has 39 stitch patterns, including eyelets and cable knits. They offer instructions for knitting an 8×8 inch square in each pattern.

Keep in mind that the instructions for the squares are designed for a small gauge loom, so if you have a Knifty Knitter, Boye, Darice, Loops & Threads or other large gauge loom, your finished product would be much bigger than 8×8 inches.

Loom Knit Central – They have tutorials for double knitting (also called double rake knitting). Examples of stitches include the stockinette (knit), rib, box, ladder, honeycomb, star, brioche and even a cable stitch.

 

BOOKS

Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary – This book gives you 90 stitches that can be made on the loom, including basic knit and purl stitches to eyelets and cables. It gives you instructions for flat knitting and knitting in the round. It’s a handy go-to book for practicing new loom knitting stitches. I’d recommend this for the intermediate to advanced knitter or a beginner who is comfortable reading knit patterns without a step-by-step tutorial.

Loom Knitting Primer – This book by Isela Phelps is basically a bible for loom knitting. It has instructions for just about everything a beginner needs to know to get started with loom knitting. It includes project patterns and there is a list of stitch patterns in the back. This is the book I’d recommend for a beginning loom knitter. Intermediate knitters can skip to the back to see a list of stitches, which includes knitting charts.

Loom Knitting Stitches: My Top 10 Volume 1 – This book is written by Denise Canela from Loomahat. The book includes written instructions for the bamboo stitch, celtic knot stitch, basketweave, and several other stitches. It is similar to what is on her blog, but is handy if you want to have the stitch instructions in one place. She gives you instructions for flat knitting and knitting in the round.

If you get lost while trying out the pattern, Denise does include links to her Youtube Tutorials. This book is also available as a PDF from Etsy.

The Easier Way To Knit: A Guide to Double Rake Loom Knitting for All Skill Levels – I haven’t tried this book yet (as of Jan 2019) but it’s been on my list of books to try. It is a tutorial for double knitting, which you can do on a long loom (the rectangular looms). The back of the book has a stitch guide.

The Knitting Bible – Okay, so it’s technically not a loom knitting book, but if you can read a knitting chart (or if you know how to convert a pattern), you’ll find a lot of stitches in here. I’d recommend this for the intermediate to advanced loom knitter. Every stitch has a picture of the stitch, instructions and a knitting chart.

 

 

 

 

Black Spiral Hat for me

I took a break from my moss slip stitch scarf and decided to make a hat for myself, since we’re about to hit our rainy season in Southern California (the bulk of our rainfall hits February through April). I wanted something quick, but fun, so I opted to make a spiral hat for myself.

Since I’m a bit more experienced at making these than when I made my second knit hat a year ago, I decided to try making it a slightly different way. I marked my initial purl stitches with stitch markers, but then I wrapped my knit stitches (without knitting them off) and just did my purl stitches and continued that way around the loom, so that I had a bunch of wrapped pegs where the knit stitches were, and did the purls as I went.

At the end of each row, I went back and knitted off all of the knit stitches, except the ones right before my last purls, so I could keep track.

This way, I didn’t have to move around the stitch markers as much. I’d seen something similar in a Loomahat video last year, where the knit stitches were wrapped but not knitted off so that you can keep track of the 3 knit-2 purl or 4 knit-1 purl pattern.

black_spiral_hat3   black_spiral_hat2

Sorry about the image quality. The picture on the right is closer to the true color of the hat, but I had to take it again with the flash for the spirals to show up.

 

To make this hat, here is the basic pattern:

Tools needed:

* 36-peg wide gauge loom. I used my new Darice loom set.
Note: You need an odd-numbered loom to make the spiral, otherwise you will end up with a rib stitch pattern. Basically, a multiple of 5 plus 1. That plus one is VERY important.
If you want to knit a hat for an adult man or a woman with a larger head, use a 41-peg loom. The 36-peg will make a woman’s or teenager’s hat.
* Knitting hook / knitting tool
* Tapestry Needle for doing the bind off
* 2 skeins of yarn or you can take one skein and wind it up into two balls
(I think I used Red Heart with Love Metallic in Black)
* Optional: Crochet hook to sew in the loose ends when the hat is done.

If you want to know what looms, knitting hooks, and tapestry needles I use, you can click on Venus’ Loom Bag.


Knitting Instructions:

Cast on

(We will do 3 sets of garter stitch rows for the brim. This is NOT a thick, fold-over brim. You’ll need more rows to make a fold-over brim – you can try 6-8 sets of garter stitch)
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl

(Now for the body of the hat, which in my case has a knit 3, purl 2 pattern. You could also do a knit 4, purl 1 pattern, if you prefer). I used an e-wrap stitch.

Knit 3, purl 2 (repeat this for every row).
Note: Because you are using an odd-numbered loom, your starting peg will move with each row.

For an adult hat: Follow this pattern until your hat measures about 9″.
For a man with a large head, you might wish to do 10″. For a teenager, knit 7.5″-8″ long.

* If you are new to loom knitting or find yourself getting very confused with keeping track of your stitch pattern, you’ll want to use stitch markers around the entire loom. See my old post about how I made my first spiral hat. The processed I used was a little more time consuming, but less likely to cause errors in the pattern.

For intermediate/advanced knitters: wrap 3 pegs, then purl 2, wrap 3 pegs, then purl 2 and continue until you have completed one row around the loom. Don’t knit off, just leave the pegs wrapped until you complete your row.

Once your row is done, knit off all of the wrapped pegs. Your starting place has now moved down one peg because you are using an odd-numbered loom. As you start a new row, move your stitch marker to reflect your new starting peg.

If you are working left to right, your starting peg is now one peg to the left of the original starting point. If you are working right to left, your starting peg is now one to the right of your original starting point.

Now, move your starting peg stitch marker and go ahead and knit your next row: knit 3, purl 2 (repeat).

You want to keep track of where your starting peg is for each row. I recommend the Boye stich markers that easily open and close or a diaper-pin style stitch marker as you can remove these without taking your yarn off of the peg.

Continue knitting more rows until your hat measures around 9″ long.

Once your hat is long enough, do a gathered bind off.

A gathered bind off will keep your pattern neat. If you tried to do a decrease, it would most likely throw off your stitch pattern.

Sew in your loose ends at the top of the hat. If needed, tighten your cast on row, then sew in the tail of yarn from when you started the project.

I hope you enjoyed this spiral hat. It was fun and quick to make.

Until next time, happy looming!

black_spiral_hat5

 

 

Patience is a virtue (and the Moss Slip Stitch)

 

 

The past few weeks, I’ve been working on a new stitch pattern called the Moss Slip Stitch from the Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary (you can read my review of the book here). The Moss Slip Stitch is a beautiful stitch, especially in small gauge. I have to say it’s the most beautiful stitch I’ve knitted thus far and my KB round looms make it look really nice because of the tight 3/8″ loom gauge. The pictures don’t do it justice.

The problem is that I started out with a knit stitch for the selvedge and I didn’t realize it would make the whole scarf curl in. I should have done a garter stitch. While there are purls in this pattern, it was not enough to stop the curling. I think I will need to make this thing double length so that I can loop it around twice and make it a nice infinity scarf/cowl scarf.

Here’s a picture of my recent progress. I still have a long way to go to get this done.

This project requires a lot of patience as more than once, I’ve done 1-2 rows incorrectly and then had to figure out which row I should have done and then unravel the mistakes and start that section over again. And whenever I set the project down and start up again, I tend to lose my place.

It is a lesson in patience.

How can it be that the most beautiful stitch I’ve knitted thus far has resulted in a project I’m hesitant about finishing?

And yet, because the stitch is so lovely, how can I not finish it? The knitter’s moral dilemma.

I will persevere!

For those wanting to try the moss slip stitch on a loom, I would suggest getting a copy of the Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary. This pattern is a slightly different version of the moss stitch and I haven’t seen it in other tutorials, or I’d post the pattern instructions here.

It’s similar to the Irish moss and the double moss, but there are stitches that you skip over and slip behind the peg.

I did find a needle knit tutorial of this stitch on YouTube, but the finished piece looks a little different because the video shows how to knit the moss slip stitch in two colors rather than one. However, it is essentially the same pattern (if you follow the video, you’d just need to convert for the loom).

Knitting Organizer (Yarn Bag) Review

After seeing my sister-in-law receive a nice yarn bag for Christmas, I decided to go hunting for my own. I wasn’t sure I wanted to invest the $60 for the one she got (and my honey told me to hold off on buying the fancier ones as he might want to get one for me later).

My sister-in-law calls hers “the only yarn bag you’ll ever need”. LOL. I think over the course of my knitting career, I’ll probably own several knitting bags/organizers because I’m a craft hoarder. I have a hard time saying no to yarn sales/loom sales.

I wanted a yarn bag/organizer that would fit more than one project and that could hold a couple of looms inside. Since I had a gift card for Amazon, I decided to buy it there rather than going to my local Joann.

After looking at a few reviews, I opted for the Knitting Organizer by Besti on Amazon, which at the time of this writing, is $16.95.

It fits about six normal skeins of yarn (or three large skeins) in the front, which is where you’d store yarn for any current knitting projects. The front size has holes at the top allow you to feed yarn through so you don’t have to take the yarn out of the bag. There are three compartments, which are clear so you can see which yarns you’re using.

The back side is one large zippered compartment, so you can use this for yarn, looms, or whatever your heart desires!

See it here:

 

I use the front side for my active yarn and I use the back compartment for my looms and any loom books I’m using for a pattern. I like that I can put 2-4 looms in here and a couple of small knitting books.

The bag will fit round looms easily, but if you are using long looms (the rectangular ones), you might not be able to fit your long loom inside the bag. My small ones would fit, but not my big 62-peg Loops & Threads loom. I have not checked to see if my KB All-in-One loom will fit inside.

The Knitting Organizer by Besti has smaller compartments on the top, and the sides, so you can fit all of your loom hooks, tapestry needles, crochet hooks, knitting needles, etc. So far, the bag seems well-made for what it is. I expected it to look and feel cheap, but it was better than I expected. It’s not going to last 30 years, but what does these days?

It also comes with a long shoulder strap. I think it’s a good bag for schlepping around the house or to take with you to a knitting group. It’s a bit large for air travel unless you are planning to use this as your carry-on item. The dimensions are 12”x15”x10”.

Knitting-Organizer-Besti3

One downside for some users is that the bag does not stand up on it’s own. There’s no cardboard or anything to hold this bag up. It sits upright if you have it filled, but if you only have one skein of yarn and a loom, it’s going to droop and fold in on itself. This was not a problem for me, but it might be a drawback for others.

I love having the zippered compartment on the top for my loom hooks.  And having the yarn holes and velcro at the top is very handy for keeping yarn contained and making it less tempting for my cat to play with. The bag is not totally cat proof, but it’s better than the plastic bags and grocery totes I was using.

I think it’s a great investment for $17 to keep your yarn clean and away from pets or just to reduce clutter and mess while you’re working on one or two projects.

For my purposes, I’d give this a 5 out of 5 for a large, cheap, easy-to-use yarn bag with lots of compartments. If you’re concerned about long-term durability and the yarn bag needing to stand up on it’s own then this is probably going to be a 3.5 out of 5.

At the time of this writing, I’ve been using the bag for almost a week. If I notice any significant issues with the bag over time, I’ll come back and update this post and the review score.

Do you use a knitting organizer or storage bag for your knitting projects? How do you like it? Let us know in the comments.

Happy Looming!

 

*Disclaimer: I purchased this yarn bag and did not receive any compensation for this review. All opinions are my own. This post does include affiliate/advertising links.

Found Knitting Books

Recently, I’ve been playing around with the Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary, but I’d been wondering if I could find a useful traditional needle knitting book that would give me more stitches to play with. I browsed online then thought about checking out our second-hand craft store. Unfortunately, when we went to the craft store, it was closed for reorganizing, so we made other plans for the day.

We happened to stop by Tuesday Morning, where I was fortunate to find several skeins of superwash wool yarn in blue and in white. I got a few black ones, too, but the blue and white were actually available in large quantities, which is not very common at this discount store.

Next to Tuesday Morning is a book store and my mother-in-law wanted to go in, so I decided I’d browse for a knitting book. I glanced through a few but the ones I grabbed didn’t have what I was looking for. Then I picked up The Knitting Bible by Peter Pauper Press. It was wrapped in plastic, so I hesitated on buying it, plus the actual wrapper had a warning note on the back that made it difficult to read the back blurb. But, something intrigued me, so I decided to look online and see if I could find a review.

I waited for the results to load and at that moment, my MIL came by to check if I’d found everything I was looking for. I mentioned that I was debating on whether to get this knitting book and she told me to just get it and that we could return it if it wasn’t what I was looking for.

It was exactly what I was looking for!!

knitting_bible_and_grid_paper

It has lots of color pictures, showing every stitch, and there are stitch charts included so you know which stitches are on the right side of the work (which helps because the main difference in loom knitting vs needle knitting – apart from using a loom – is that we only work the right side of the project). The Knitting Bible also offers some additional knit and purl stitches that the Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary didn’t have. The caterpillar stitch is an interesting one, but I can’t wait to try the pique stitch.

The book allows me to either follow the chart or I can use the needle pattern and just do the reverse of the stitches in the even numbered rows. I bought a grid lined notebook so I can convert stitch patterns and design my own projects.

I’m hoping to write a more detailed review later on after I’ve had a chance to play with it.

A few days later, when the second-hand craft store had it’s re-opening, I found two more knitting books. One Ball Knits and a 1970s knitting dictionary from Mon Tricot.

one_ball_knits_1030_stitch_patterns_dictionary

The Mon Tricot Knitting Dictionary: 1030 Stitches Patterns has a combination of needle knit and crochet patterns as well as needle knitting techniques. Most of the images are in black and white, but there are some color pictures for granny squares and several of the multi-color stitch patterns. It looks like you can still find this book used at Amazon and Etsy.

One Ball Knits is a combination of knitting techniques (the first third of the book is about basic knitting techniques), knitting terms, and things you need to know about yarn, from weight to needle size, dye lots, yarn gauge, and substituting one yarn for another.

The book has 20 knitting patterns, which include scarves, shawls, gloves, socks, bags, belts and even a necklace and a felted hat. Each pattern includes the written instructions and a knitting chart. They also tell you the yarn used, the needle size, and the gauge so you know if you’re on the right track.

Once I get a bit more comfortable with knitting charts (and converting written patterns), I might try a couple of these. I like the kimono shrug and the Moebius shawl (though I think there are loom knit patterns out there for a similar Moebius shawl).

While I like some of the designs much better than others, I do think the book gives you an idea of the variety of things you could make with one skein of yarn.

I might look for some other stitch dictionaries. I don’t know if they will be quite as good as the Knitting Bible, but it’s helpful to know which stitches are common stitches and which are newer creations.

Hope you’re having a great start to the year!

Do any of you like to use needle knitting books or patterns for your loom knitting? Do you read the knitting charts or convert your pattern by hand?

Loom Review – Darice Round Loom Set

Recently, I misplaced a couple of my Loops & Threads round looms. I’m very sad about this, but because I had some hats to knit and wanted to use a wide gauge loom, I bought the Darice Round Loom set.

Darice-Looms

It was on sale at Amazon for $10.99 in December. I’ve seen the set priced between $10.99 – $16.99 USD. It just depends on the time of year, I think. I’ve also seen this set at Consumer Crafts online for around $10, plus shipping.

The Darice set is very similar to the Loops & Threads, Knifty Knitter, and Boye looms and comes in the standard 24-peg, 31-peg, 36-peg, and 41-peg wide gauge looms.

The construction is very similar to my Boye loom, but doesn’t have the ragged plastic edges that the Boye loom has and it does not have the crochet hook head. Some parts of the loom had a whitish tinge (such as when you bend plastic out of shape). I’m a little nervous that after heavy use, the plastic grooves will get scratched up.

I would say for quality, the Darice loom set is in between the Boye looms and the Loops & Threads looms. After using all three, I’d say I’m partial to the Loops & Threads, personally. I have not used Knifty Knitter, so I can’t compare.

My Authentic Knitting Board looms are better as far as quality goes, but those are more expensive, so its not exactly a fair comparison. I would definitely pick the Darice looms over the Boye loom set, unless you have dexterity issues and you need the crochet hook tops on the pegs.

I do think the Darice looms are great for the price. They are inexpensive, easy to use, are fairly sturdy, and will make a lot of projects: hats, scarves, blankets, etc. You can use these looms to make many sizes of hats from premie to adult size. It would be a great loom set for a beginner or to give to your kids or grandkids.

The looms aren’t heavy and they seem easy to learn on. I did pull on some of the pegs and didn’t feel like they would break or fly out. The wide gauge makes hats and scarves quick to knit. You’ll need a chunky yarn for these (or two strands of #4 worsted weight yarn). It’s a great set to add to your collection.

Darice-Looms-Tools

The loom comes with a knitting hook and a tapestry needle. I give an A+ to the tapestry needle which is long and has a very wide eye. This thing is great for chunky yarns. It can compete with my beloved Clover jumbo tapestry needles. Both have a very big eye, which is super helpful when you have to squeeze a thick yarn through the eye.

Sadly, I did not like the knitting hook. It has a rubberized coating that I thought would be great, but when I tried using it, the hook made my hand hurt after a while. I had to switch back to the KB Ergonomic Knitting Tool, which is my go-to knitting hook.

If you can loom for long periods without an ergonomic hook, you’ll probably be fine with the Darice knitting hook. If you have carpel tunnel or sensitive wrists, you can get an ergonomic hook at Joann, Authentic Knitting Board, Amazon or on Etsy.

The looms do come with brief instructions on the package. If you’ve never loom knitted before, go onto YouTube for detailed instructions on how to loom knit. Or, try one of the tutorials on Loomahat.com.

Overall, the Darice looms are good and I think they make a long loom set as well.

I was talking with a woman in my facebook loom knitting group and she said she buys extras of the Darice round looms to have around for gifts. I might end up getting a few extras myself, if I ever teach a beginner class.

For quality, I’d give this around a 4.

For the convenient price, sturdiness, ease of use, I’d give the Darice loom set a 4.25. I think it’s a great starter loom set.

 

 

*Disclaimer: I purchased this loom set and did not receive any compensation for this review. All opinions are my own. This post does include affiliate/advertising links.

Roman Stitch Hats

Roman-stitch-hat-closeup1

One of the projects I worked on over the holidays was a Roman stitch hat for a little girl who is like a goddaughter to us. I knitted a Roman stitch hat for her and a garter stitch hat for her sister.

I got the idea while perusing the Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary by Kathy Norris. You can find my review of it here.

I ended up making two of these because I realized the first hat I made was more of a baby/toddler hat, so I made it again on a 36-peg loom so that it would fit an older child.

You can see both hats here:

Roman-stitch-hat-sm-med1

Since I’ve only seen the Roman stitch mentioned in a couple of places, I’m not sure if this is a common stitch, so I won’t post the exact instructions here. If you’d like to make one of these, I’d recommend getting the stitch dictionary.

If you know how to u-knit, purl, and do the gathered bind off, you can make this hat.

I used the Darice 36-peg loom and made a garter stitch brim. This is a wide gauge loom. You could make this on a small gauge loom, but you’d need two strands of thin yarn or one strand of worsted weight.

For the brim, I did three sets of garter stitch, but I did it as purl one row, knit one row instead of starting with the knit row first. The knit stitches are u-knit, not ewrap. I wanted the hat to fit an older child (6-11), not a teen, so I used u-knit so that the stitches would be a little tighter.

I used two skeins of yarn and knit as one. The yarn was Red Heart Super Saver in Country Blue and I think the multi-colored one was the Monet Print colorway, but I’m not sure. It was blue with pink, purple, and yellow mixed in.

Note: The Roman Stitch works best with an EVEN number of pegs, so if you are not using a 36-peg loom, make sure you choose one with an even number.

The hat “pattern” for the child’s hat went like this:

Brim:

E-wrap cast on
Row 1: Purl across
Row 2: Knit across
Row 3: Purl across
Row 4: Knit across
Row 5: Purl across
Row 6: Knit across

Body of the hat:

Roman stitch x 6
(The Roman stitch is essentially made up of knit rows and then a combination of knits and purls. Again, for the exact instructions, see the Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary).

Last row: Knit across then do the gathered bind off. For those new to looming, you will need a tapestry needle for the gathered bind off.

Here is a close-up of the Roman stitch:

Roman-stitch-close-up1

You can see in the photo that one of the Roman stitches in the middle has an extra “knit” as I’d lost track of my count so that one section in the middle is a little longer that the rest.

And for those who are curious as to what the inside looks like, here is the reverse side (inside) of the hat:

Roman-stitch-hat-reverse1

This was a fun and relatively easy hat to make! If you’re looking for something new to try, I recommend it.

I also used this yarn combination when I made the hurdle stitch hat for my niece last year.

If you are interested in checking out the Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary, written by Kathy Norris, you can find it at Joann, Amazon, and the Leisure Arts website. The author has written several books on loom knitting.

Do you have a favorite hat stitch or pattern you like to use? Let us know in the comments.

 

Happy New Year 2019!

Happy New Year to all of my readers. I hope you all had a wonderful start to the new year and I wish you all lots of yarn, free time, health and happiness!

Last year, I’d set a very ambitious goal for myself: to write 40-50 posts, but that got derailed when I became ill in February and was first diagnosed with possible endometriosis and later discovered I had adenomyosis.

I did knit 30 projects between December 2017 and January 2018, so I’d say that was pretty productive for my first year of loom knitting!

This year, one of my goals is to learn to knit a sock. I’m a little intimidated by this. I started knitting a baby bootie last month, but had to unravel it a couple of times. I did manage to make a heel, but I realized I’d made the bottom of the bootie far too long and so I frogged it and had a little trouble getting back into the rhythm. I will persevere!

December was a month of frogging for me. 🙂

For 2019, I am hoping to post more reviews, such as loom reviews and loom knitting book reviews. And of course, I’ll continue to post about various projects I make during the year. I think I’d like to try some loom-knit toys.

Do you have any knitting goals for this year? Are there any projects you’ve been dying to try?

 

Book Review – Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary

Loom-Stitch-Dictionary

Hi everyone!

I hope you had a wonderful holiday. This holiday season, I’ve mostly been resting and recuperating from a recent surgery, so it’s given me time to knit! Recently, I’ve been working with a few stitch patterns from the Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary by Kathy Norris. It is published by Leisure Arts. Kathy has written several other loom knitting books as well.

I bought this book early on in my loom knitting adventures, before I really knew what to do with it. When I first opened the book and looked inside, it was a bit overwhelming. Now that I’m an intermediate loom knitter, it’s very useful for coming up with my own creations and learning new stitches.

So I will say this book is better suited for someone who has already loom knitted a few projects rather than someone who is completely starting from scratch. It is not suited for beginners. If you’re looking for really easy to follow instructions for knitting your first or second project, then I would recommend going to YouTube or Loomahat.com. Or, you can try one of these books:

Loom Knitting Primer by Isela Phelps or Round Loom Knitting in 10 Easy Projects by Nicole F. Fox. Both books assume you know nothing about loom knitting and explain the tools you need, loom gauge, casting on, binding off, knit vs. purl, and they include patterns.

Back to the Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary. If you have already knitted a few items and you know how to read a pattern (or you have experience with needle knit patterns), then you can follow along in this book.

It presumes that you already know how to create knit and purl stitches.

I should clarify because the first chapter assumes that you know how to create a “true-knit”, which is different from the e-wrap knit stitch that most of us learned when we started loom knitting. There are some pictures of this in the very back of the book. I think the instructions should have been at the beginning because new knitters who have only used e-wrap aren’t going to know that knit does not mean e-wrap unless they read the book in order. Ms. Norris does mention at the beginning of the knit and purl chapter that she’s using true knit, but it would be easy to miss if you’re skimming and choosing a pattern by looking at the pictures.

If you’re like me and you prefer a simpler stitch, you can u-knit where it asks for knit (true knit).

In this book, e-wrap falls under the chapter on “Twisted Stitches”. The code in the book for e-wrap is EWK. So patterns will either say K for true knit or they will say EWK. Purl stitches will say P.

Here is a picture of the Table of Contents:

Loom-Stitch-Dictionary1

And here are some of the stitch patterns you can create:

Loom-Stitch-Dictionary2Loom-Stitch-Dictionary3Loom-Stitch-Dictionary4

* These photos were taken of my personal copy of Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary, but I do not own the copyright for the original photographs. These photos were taken for review purposes only.

The book does include patterns for using multiple colors and explains how to change colors and how to skip stitches. I haven’t tried any multi-color patterns from the book yet, so I can’t comment on those.  It also gives instructions for decreasing (which you’ll need to understand to create the lace patterns).

For the most part, Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary is easy to follow, once you know how to read patterns, and it includes instructions for working on a flat panel (i.e., a scarf or blanket) or for circular knitting (such as a hat or cowl). This is very useful as some stitch patterns have to be worked differently depending on whether you are knitting in the round or not.

For each stitch pattern, you’ll find a picture of the stitch, the name of the stitch, and then instructions for how to knit the stitch in a flat panel or in the round.

I think it would have been helpful if there’d been an index so you could find a stitch right away without flipping through. It’s not too much of an issue since the dictionary is short. I just think it would be helpful for those who want to look up a stitch by name, but don’t know exactly what it looks like.

Note: This book contains stitch patterns only and a few loom instructions. It DOES NOT show you how to make a hat, scarf or other finished items.

It is a reference book designed to: 1. Help you find new stitches 2. Look up a stitch by the picture to find out the name of the stitch and how to knit it.

To use this book, you need to know how to cast on and bind off and understand what loom size and yarn weight you need for your project. Though, thankfully, there is a chart on yarn weight in the beginning of the book, on page 5, and another one at the end on page 91.

This is why I say Loom Knit Stitch Dictionary is not for beginning loom knitters, unless you already have experience with needle knitting or crochet. If you’re an intermediate or advanced loom knitter, you’ll get a lot more out of the dictionary.

I like the portable size of the book. It’s light weight and easy to take with you, though it is not pocket-sized. But it will fit in a medium to large purse or a yarn bag.

I accidentally spilled something near my copy, so the top edge of the book got wet, but since the pages are nice and thick for the photographs, the book is still in good condition.

The review score and my final thoughts:

I vacillated on the score because I was tempted to give a lower rating. The reason: I wish it was more accessible for beginners. If it had a few more pictures of looming techniques and maybe a glossary of loom knitting terms, I’d probably give it 5 stars. However, there are other books that are specifically geared for people who are new to loom knitting. This book isn’t trying to be a catch-all book to teach you everything.

It is first and foremost a dictionary of stitches and in that regard, it does exactly what it intends to do – give a name and picture of each stitch and a basic pattern for how it is knitted.

I’d give this book 4.5 out of 5 stars.

Overall, this is a great reference book for intermediate to advanced loom knitters and Kathy Norris has taken the time to convert various needle-knit stitches to loom knitting so that you don’t have to sit and figure it out yourself. Thank you, Ms. Norris!

You can find this book, and other books by Kathy Norris, at LeisureArts.com, Joann.com, Amazon.com, and you might be able to find one at Michael’s (in-store), but they generally have a smaller selection of knitting books.

 

* Disclosure: This book was purchased by me and I did not receive any compensation from the author or publisher. All opinions are my own. This post does include affiliate links, so if you purchase via the link, I would receive a small commission, which helps me keep the blog running.